Scuba Diving in Haiti

Though I’ve logged numerous dives around the world, and in Haiti have gone scuba diving to such various locales as Les Arcadins, La Gonave, Jacmel, Ile-la-Vache, Petit Goave, Cap Haitien and even inside Basin Bleu (which required hiking up to the waterfall on foot with all of our gear), I still feel as if I’ve barely scratched the surface as to the excellent scuba diving Haiti has to offer!

For those who have been living here and are still unaware, and to those newly arrived, I’m delighted to shine my dive light to illuminate this “secret treasure” for other kindred spirits who have an adventurous edge and a strong attraction to the sea with all of its wonderfully colorful reefs and diverse creatures.

Haiti is, of course, located in the heart of the Caribbean Sea, and surrounded by world class dive spots such as Turks & Caicos, the Cayman Islands, the Dominican Republic and Cuba. It stands to reason, therefore, that Haiti would provide similar turquoise blue, warm and gin-clear conditions. Here, there is often 100+ feet (33+ meters) of visibility, and one must typically only don a 3 mm wetsuit, full or shorty, to be comfortable getting wet for that hour or so communing with the fish and fauna below.

In Haiti’s waters you will still see small schools of fish, moray eels, crabs, lobsters (the clawless variety found on your plate here in the Caribbean) and the occasional spotted eagle ray, sting ray, barracuda and reef shark, as well as some of the largest elephant ear sponges in the world and healthy reefs which have surprisingly eluded the coral bleaching that has affected other areas in the Caribbean. What Haiti hasn’t escaped is the invasion of lion fish which have unfortunately made their way from the Pacific. While beautiful to look at, these fish are poisonous predators and are exacerbating the depletion of the local fish population, so it is actually encouraged to hunt them. So, bring out your spear gun and come back with some nice fodder for ceviche or lion fish tacos (just be careful not to touch the spines while preparing the fish!), and perhaps buy some locally sold oysters or grilled lambi, add an ice cold post-dive Prestige and enjoy the feast!

Given its extensive and nearly virgin coastline, one could literally spend years here searching out new and unchartered territory to explore underwater. Luckily, there are several old salts in Haiti who have already done the leg work for you by identifying the best and most easily accessible sites and who have established dive operations nearby.

Wreck diving is one of my favorite dive specialties, given the associated challenge, history and abundance of marine life that typically inhabits artificially-created reefs. There are several nice wrecks located around Kaliko including a PT boat that lies at about 90 feet next to a wall that descends into the deep blue abyss, allowing one to combine the wreck dive with a potentially narcosis-inducing deep one. The Tina D is a small tanker whose upper structure lies at about 50 feet and whose hull sits at about 130 feet, so is good for advanced divers and underwater photographers. Lastly, the Elie Jeanne is a grain carrier that was scuttled a few years back and lies from 110 feet to 250 feet, so mostly advisable for experienced deep or tech divers.

Given Haiti’s history and geographically strategic location there are also a number of Spanish galleons and pirate ships that have wrecked along the coast, including some used by Christopher Columbus and the infamous Captain Morgan. While the location of them are kept largely under wraps, the two other principle dive operators in Haiti, Gilbert Assad at Fort Buccanier on Ile-la-Vache has scuba gear for rent and can arrange a private charter to take you to dive on wrecks and reefs in their respective areas. I did have the privilege of diving on several wrecked pirate ships with Gilbert, and there is a plan in the works to relocate the 60 cannons and other artifacts found on them to create an underwater museum on Ile-la-Vache which will be a fantastic upcoming attraction for tourists coming out to the island!

For people who already have a dive-buddy and want to go out exploring, you can rent tanks from Kaliko and go shore diving anywhere along the coast. I’ve been meaning to jump in Zombie Hole near St Marc which purportedly has one of the largest elephant ear sponges anywhere. For that matter, I’ve been meaning to check out Mole St Nicholas, Les Cayemites, the other side of La Gonave, Port de Paix to see schooling hammerheads, and am chomping at the bit to go out to explore La Navasse, a US territory between Haiti and Cuba purported to be the Galapagos of the Caribbean.

Given there is no hyberbaric chamber in Haiti to treat dive emergencies, I would be remiss if I didn’t stress that you should practice safe diving while here (as anywhere). Remember to buddy check, take only photos and leave only bubbles – and, above all, have fun!!

Article by Jeff Kerzner